Passatge de Permanyer
A London street in the middle of Cerdà’s Eixample
Passatge de Permanyer is one of a number of streets that have managed to preserve their original character. It contains one of the best rows of English-style houses in Barcelona. The constructions, which consist of a semi-basement and piano nobile, have a small front garden and incorporate classic elements.
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Why visit Passatge de Permanyer?
This terrace, which cuts through the block formed by Carrer Roger de Llúria, Carrer de Pau Claris, Carrer de la Diputació and Carrer del Consell de Cent is a portal to the early years of the Eixample. It was designed in 1864 by Jeroni Granell i Barrera based on London’s cobbled streets of terraced houses with front gardens. Actually, this type of ‘intervia’, the technical name for this type of street, represents a diversion from Ildefons Cerdà’s original plan, which stipulated that only half of the surface area of a block would have buildings.
The row of detached houses on Passatge de Permanyer, in contrast to other similar streets in the Eixample district, like Passatge de Méndez Vigo, was designed as a single unit. Each terraced house has its own front garden, through which access to the residence is gained, and a small basement-level patio to facilitate ventilation. The houses, now refurbished as corporate headquarters, belong to the Romantic eclecticism style, although they present some Arabesque references. The entire street is cobbled and access is exclusively for pedestrians.
The Catalan poet and commercial artist Apel·les Mestres lived at Passatge de Permanyer, 14. One of his hobbies was looking after his garden and he punctiliously watered his hydrangeas and other flowers every night at precisely one o’clock in the morning. You can still see an impressive Himalayan cedar tree in the garden.
How do you get to Passatge de Permanyer?
Hop off at the Casa Batlló – Fundació Antoni Tàpies stop on the Red or Blue Route of Barcelona Bus Turístic and you can get to Passatge de Permanyer via Carrer de Pau Claris. It is located between Carrer del Consell de Cent and Carrer de la Diputació.
For the most curious of you
- Did you know? The street is dedicated to Francesc Permanyer i Tuyets, who was the Mayor of Barcelona in 1856.
- Local’s tip: If you leave Passatge de Permanyer and cross Carrer de Roger de Llúria you will reach the entrance to the Torre de Les Aigües gardens, a charming public green space located in one of the blocks in the Eixample.
- A must: To discover the corner of Barcelona that is least like Barcelona.
